Work in Process: Tiramisu Dress

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It looks pretty OK lying flat-ish on my table.

This week, I’ve been working on the Tiramisu Dress from Cake patterns.  Last night, I finished the bodice, so it’s time for a  fit check.

Help, please??photo(3)

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WTF?

I really don’t know what is going on here. My high bust measures 31″, my full bust is 36″
Based on the fit chart, I made a 30D.  The full bust meaurement for D is only 33″, but I figured it’s a knit, it will stretch, and I don’t mind a close fit.

So why on earth do I have all this extra fabric above my waistline? Why does my seam look like I was drunk at the machine? I won’t say it’s perfectly straight, but I didn’t expect it to look so wonky when I put it on.
I even picked out the seam twice (picking out a stretch stitch is such a treat, let me tell you), and redid the seam to get it as straight as possible.

What went wrong here? Can it be fixed?
My next most likely bodice option is a 35A (based on full bust measurement of 35″), but since I’m already on the lower range of the size 30, I’m afraid my shoulders will be swimming.

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4 thoughts on “Work in Process: Tiramisu Dress

  1. Cute fabric! :)

    The crinkle does happen for some body shapes, it would seem. That’s cool, I know how to fix you up. :) No worries, and not very much unpicking, my friend. I did this surgery on a Tira for a friend of mine who is very similarly shaped to you, and it was great. If you do exactly this, your Tira will straighten up and behave:

    On the Bodice Front piece (3), move the CF notch about 1cm / 1/2″ towards the neckline edge. Mark it. Circle it, maybe with the date so you remember later on that this is your customization.

    Turn the bodice inside out.

    Cut off the front bodice-to-midriff seam. Right on the stitching line, just cut it off and throw it away. Also cut off the side seam from the front bodice underbust seam to the sleeve edge. You will be fine, the Tira needs to be tightened up there anyway. Then unpick a little bit at the top of the side seam on the midriff piece.

    Lay the bodice on the table with the front bodice pieces free and wrong side facing up.

    Re-mark your notches, centering the pattern piece over your freshly liberated front bodice and being sure to use the “new” CF notch.

    Re-stitch the underbust seam with a basting stitch. Baste the side seam back together. Try it on. You may need to move the CF just a touch more, but 1/2″ is a good start from what I can see.

    Once the fit is happy, stitch the seams and then finish them nicely.

    Important- mark these changes (reduction of front bodice underbust seam, notch moving, and side seam) on your pattern so you never have to do surgery again. :)

    Good? If you have any surgical issues, don’t stress, just take a quick photo and send it to stephc@3hourspast.com :)

    • Wow! Thank you so much for the comment. I will give it a try in the morning. I love the fabric, so I’d love to salvage this project. It’s a rib knit with only about 15% stretch, and someone on pattern review suggested it might not be springy enough.
      I do love the design, so I will try it again in a knit with more bounce back if I can’t get the teacups to cooperate.

  2. I was gonna say; in my inexpert opinion you moved the cross-breast seam over too far so rather than a nice little gather under your bust you have the one weird pleat billowing. The too-far cross-seam pulls on the waist seam and makes it warp up. Also, clearly your ribcage taper is a tad sharper than the average so a princess waistline is going to be a lil bit looser than average too. That happens often with people of shorter stature.

    But StephC obviously knows the mechanics of fixing all that. Just thought I’d give a laywoman’s POV

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