M6599: progress and puckers

This wearable muslin is my first time working with charmeuse, and it’s been a learning experience for sure.
The fabric is so slippery, I expected cutting to be difficult. I searched for some tips, and cut the fabric with a rotary cutter. I laid it on tissue, and held it in place with both pattern weights and pins. It didn’t go too badly, and I think the tissue definitely helped- a few of my pieces didn’t have tissue under the entire piece, and I could feel a difference when cutting those parts.
The bodice front went together OK using my usual thread and usual stitch length of 3.
Then I moved on to the bodice back, and it came out a horrible, puckered mess.
Ick. Luckily, the fabric is surprisingly forgiving of seam ripping.
I looked to the Internet for guidance, changed out my thread to embroidery thread, and turned my stitch length way down to 1.4.
Much improved!! It’s still a little puckery, but I think I can live with it, and I don’t want to press my luck with the seam ripper. I think/hope some of it will shake out once it’s on a body instead of a flat table since it’s not as bad on the tailor’s ham.
I also redid the bodice front even though it wasn’t too bad, and it’s also looking better.
I’ve got the lining mostly done, and I think I can finish this whole thing before next week.

6 thoughts on “M6599: progress and puckers

  1. I am having exactly the same problem tonight, and I’m using cotton and a pattern i’ve made several times before with no problems. I’ve given up in a sulk so I’m now watching law and Order, sipping cider and waiting until I am less stressed before going in for round 2. Must be something in the air?

  2. Jennifer says:

    Here’s a trick – when you’re sewing on silk or another slippery nasty fabric cut some pieces of tracing paper or other thin paper you may have around. Cash register tape works great – anyway put the paper under the two lawyers of silk and sew through all three layers. Then carefully rip off the paper – voila’ seams will not pucker! Neat.

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