Comparing two adjustment methods in muslin

Last week, I muslined up my slash & spread method for an FBA that I shared the pattern for in my previous entry, and I was able to doctor up a few comparison pictures.

I spent a little bit of time over the weekend making adjustments to both of them, and I feel like I’m getting pretty close with the slash/spread.  I took in the shoulder seams by about 1/4″ in both front and back, and I widened the base of the waist dart, so now the full area of the muslin matches the full area of me pretty well without all that extra baggy fabric.  It’s still generally too tight in the back, and a little too tight at the front waist.  I played a little with different seam allowances at the zipper to fix that, but it just made the front get too baggy again.  I’m going to try adjusting at the side seams and the zipper.  Maybe that will give me a little more breathing room without compromising the shape of the front as much.

 

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8 thoughts on “Comparing two adjustment methods in muslin

  1. I’m not sure what you mean by slash and spread. Are you talking about a y-bust FBA? I’m also not sure what the Craftsy method is. For more room in the shoulders I HIGHLY recommend a rounded shoulders adjustment.

    • The craftsy method is the one I’m trying to learn in the Lynda Maynard Craftsy course.
      I don’t know what Y method is, but slash and spread is the one I’ve usually seen in books and tutorials where you cut up the center of the waist dart, and angle to the arm curve, and then cut a hinge through the side dart.
      Rounded shoulders is surprising! I actually did a square shoulder adjustment on the slash/spread bodice because of my back gap issue that was starting to come into play in the other muslin. It seemed to help a little, but maybe that wasn’t the cause of my back gap? I know one of the books saying its easy to confuse that one with another body variation, but can’t remember offhand what the other option was.

      • The slash and spread is the y-bust dart adjustment, cause it looks like a Y when you make it (for me, anyway). And its possibly to have square shoulders and a rounded upper back, which makes fitting weird. The rounded upper back/forward shoulders for me is from years of IT work sitting in front of a computer.

        One of the best tips I learned early on was to adjust the shoulders and back first, then fix the bust. Eventually I got really good at measuring the flat pattern and determining which of my usual adjustments to make.

      • I felt like I was hitting a wall with this particular pattern, so I set it aside to make a Collette Crepe. After the first muslin of that, I tried a sloped shoulder adjust, and it was a big improvement! I think I’m going to start fresh at the fitting muslin in this post in a couple of weeks after vacation.

    • They are both equally bad in different ways! Haha!!
      I decided I am going to continue to take Lynda Maynard’s advice for the craftsy one (she said to do another full bust adjustment and add circumference at the torso… Now it’s gaping around the armpits), and to tweak on my own with the slash/spread.
      Whichever method gets me a wearable bodice first will win the coveted “Miss Parayim Snips of Approval”*

      *not an actual prize

      • Not as excited as I am! Believe me!! I have put myself out of the running for months in terms of contests, sewalongs, and general “fun for me” sewing, so I am really ready to figure out a pretty solid alterations plan of attack for future projects.
        I’ve even thought about taking my sad muslin in to the dry cleaner and have them do the alteration, and then I could just copy what they do to it, but that almost feels like cheating- I’m not quite there yet!

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